Estadio
Thursday, July 22, 2010 at 07:26AM I love tapas.
Actually, love is not a strong enough word. I would bleed for those small, sharable, Spanish plates. People often complain about it. They don't get enough food. It's too expensive. They don't get enough of the things that they like. I shed no tears for these people. With tapas, the power is in your hands! If you liked something and didn't get enough of it? Order more, ya dope. (See also, the dessert menu!!)
That having all been said, we were uber-excited for the opening of Estadio - Spanish tapas flavors from the same culinary minds that brought us Penn Quarter's Proof. Big fans of his previous restaurant, big fans of tapas, and big fans of restaurants being right around the corner, we were over the moon to brush up on our Español.
Inside, the decor immediately scores with big picture windows opening out to 14th street for people watching and a rustic decor that feels casual and welcoming. Just like at Proof, the atmosphere and waitstaff bring a fantastic balance between classy and laid back - though the converse-meets-suit-pants look almost makes it seem like they're trying too hard. The burgundy and gold strokes all about the restaurant immediately bring to mind the Spanish flag.
Then there was the Slushito (below). I'd already heard so much about the restaurant's unique offering so I couldn't resist ordering one. Following the lead of New York hotspots like Momofuku in glamming up convenience-store fare, slushies seem like they may well be the next culinary trend. I'm a sucker for a gimmick and the slushito was surprisingly good. But as the food started to arrive I realized my error - and perhaps the greater error of the restaurant.
The Slushito has a very overpowering taste, perhaps a reason you only find them at 7-Eleven's and nowhere near fine dining. I spent the rest of the meal regretting my decision. I didn't find anything that its bold taste complimented on the menu. To me, it seems like this trend may have been a lapse in judgement, (why, Momofuku? why??) especially odd in the case of Estadio, where its sister restaurant is known for pairing wine so well with food.
Like I said, it was good, but if I return, I'll likely steer towards a glass of wine.
In capitulation to the continuing muggy weather, we started with a salad with beets, endive, orange, and sheep's milk cheese (below, left). We also found ourselves ordering a few pintxos selections (essentially the same as tapas, except traditionally from the Basque region). The spicy Marcona almonds (below right) were a nice little munchie to get started with.
It wasn't more than a minute before the next wave of dishes hit the table. And they kept coming and coming. It was the restaurant's third day open, so I'll cut them a little slack on the pacing - but every square inch of our table was covered with food, and the runners just kept bringing them. The next thing we bit into were Estadio's Patatas Bravas (below), a very nice take on the Spanish classic, but it could have benefited from a little more of that delicious spicy tomato sauce.
We also ordered the sweetbreads with tomatoes, bacon and green beans (below). It's pretty hard to go wrong with sweetbreads. These were very good, just not outstanding - the exterior could have been a little crispier to contrast better with the creaminess within.
The deviled eggs (below, left) were among our favorites - stuffed with ensalad Russa, or Russian salad (which is typically made with potato, carrots, peas, and mayonaise), they were filled with a kalaidoscope of flavors and textures in one tiny bite. The Jamon-wrapped figs (below, right) were also a success with cabrales (a Spanish blue cheese) and Marcona almonds. Both the eggs and figs are ordered individually, and I wish I hadn't been so shy when ordering them. I wouldn't have minded putting back a couple more of these 'bites.'
Because Angela never met an octopus she didn't like (to eat...that's right, 'Paul'...she's looking at you), she ordered Estadio's grilled version, which was accompanied by a potato caper salad (below). The grilling had given the octopus a nice char, but it was just slightly too chewy. It was well-complemented , though, by the tangy salad.
The spoonful of sauteed morcilla (Spanish blood sausage) topped with a tangy blue cheese and served up on a tiny bun (below, left) was rich and flavorful, but smaller than half of one of Angela's diminutive fists. We only ordered one, and struggled to slice it into two pieces (oops - our mistake!). The blood sausage had an intriguing texture - crumbly like a sloppy joe, only far dryer. The less than bite-sized profiteroles with triple cream cheese and bacon (below, right) intrigued us on paper, but left something to be desired in execution - they were kind of dry, bland bites, despite the tasty bits of bacon.
At this point, we'd ordered eight dishes and our stomachs were still growling at us (in Spanish, imagine that). So we ordered two more (one being the less than satisfying profiteroles above). The tenth dish of the evening- the duck breast with baby chard, quince and ginger sauce (below) - was very nicely cooked and juicy, and the quince was a good sweet conterpart to the meat's inherent richness. But ultimately, the duck felt like a boring way to end the evening.
For dessert, we gave the chocolate and cherry bread pudding a chance to fill us up. The sour cherries seemed to dominate the sweet dessert, but I really liked the addition of the little round dark chocolate balls.
Let's bring it back, full circle. Both Angela and myself - Mr. Small Plates Enthusiast & Life-Long Defender of all things Tapas - walked out still feeling hungry. I had even followed my own critical advice of ordering more (and more, and more...) What more could we have done? The two of us went twelve deep into that menu, and a $115 tab later, we were detouring our walk home to the grocery store to prepare for our second dinner of the night.
In retrospect, I think it may have been the absence of bread and oil in the meal that left such a glaring void in my stomach. No bread? What's the deal, Estadio?
In spite of a few hiccups, I'd like to think that Estadio will find its feet. The food was competent, even enjoyable, and the decor and atmosphere makes it a place I'll want to head back to, I just hope we have better luck finding the right combo of foods to satisfy our needy appetites. If Proof is...well...any proof of Mark Kuller's talents, Estadio should be giving Logan Circle proper tours through Spanish cuisine in no time.
D.C., Spanish, Tapas in Reviews: On The Town
Reader Comments (8)
I felt the same way about Estadio! The bf and I went the Sunday before they opened. While it was gratis I still felt that I could justify a bit of judgment...
My favorite bite from the whole meal came from the pintxos - Chorizo with manchego & pistachio crusted quince. Amazing. If left to my own vices that would have been my meal- about 10 of those.
The menu was limited as we had gotten there later in the evening so we had an heirloom tomato salad - no heirlooms to be found, the terrine which was tasty, we liked the octopus, hangar steak was decent.
Feelings were mutual regarding the duck and the chorizo bocadillo. That bread was a bit dry there...
We ended the meal not getting dessert but still hungry so we got some cheese/charcuterie which were good. We will most certainly go back but I think once things have gotten under control a bit. I love the atmosphere and really want to get back for those sweetbreads we didn't get to try as well as those chorizo/quince skewers...drool. The wine was great also. Their guy Sebastian pointed us in the right direction with our limited Spanish wine knowledge. Mostly though, I can't wait to get back to drink out of a porron!
Thanks for the review guys!
Dee-
I'm so glad it wasn't just us. I really like this place, and will probably return for like, late night drinks and tasty bites (especially the chorizo with manchego & pistachio crusted quince - we were TOTALLY looking at that). Mark hit it right on the nose - I think I would have been fine if they had served some sort of bread.
That slushito looks super refreshing, and you can never go wrong with duck! I think that dish looks really good. You guys ordered a good variety and that's awesome =)
Dskco-
I do always love duck. It was perfectly cooked, I just wouldn't have minded a little more excitement on the plate. I think maybe regular people might have been completely full if they had eaten the amount that we had, but we are MONSTERS.
I can't wait to try it (I'm actually a little shocked that I haven't been yet since I work so close!)
Laetitia,
I'm a little shocked, too, I would have thought you'd be ALL over this! Let us know what you think when you go.
at least i am not the only one!!!
food is good (not blown away) but portions??? come on!!!!
John-
You managed to capture our entire review in two lines. Good work.