Sunny Spot Venice

*Post by Mark.

With the recent opening of Sunny Spot, LA's resident king of fusion, Roy Choi has added another sucessful concept to his budding empire. Much like A-Frame, the newest venture features bold bursts of Asian and Latin flavors. But where A-Frame errs heavier on the Asian influences, you might think of Sunny Spot as its reggae-jamming, sandal-wearing, Caribbean step-brother. We were looking forward to checking it out when we met up with new friend Howard of Consuming LA.

After looking at the Caribbean-influenced menu, we were half-expecting the bartender to address us with a 'Hey Mon'. Thankfully, he didn't - the Caribbean theme is never heavy-handed in either the service or the decor. 

One place the Caribbean theme does make its presence strongly felt is on the cocktail menu, where rums from Haiti and Jamaica, as well as aged rums from Nicaragua dominate the list (below). Also available is a small selection of wines and a predominately Caribbean selection of beers on tap or in the bottle. 

We set the tone for the evening by enjoying a couple of these tropical libations at the huge bar. The Dry Harbour (below, left) blended pot still rum, lime, absinthe, habanero pineapple shrub to hit a good balance of heat and sweet. The Chilcano Bay (below, right) mixed pisco, lime, ginger, lemongrass and fernet branca for a drink that was refreshing in its tanginess, but also had a wonderful underlying warmth and fullness. 

Once we hit the table, we decided to indulge in a couple of the smaller plates. For just $4, we enjoyed the simplicity of the pineapple lollipops (not pictured), peppered with chili salt to off-set the sweetness of the fresh, juicy strips of fruit. 

We managed to resist the allure of the sweet and salty fried plantains and yucca fries, also $4, and instead opted for the yellow salty rice (below) for the same price: yellow and salty as promised, but the sodium didn’t overwhelm.

There was no need to curse when the next starch hit the table. The Muh-F*K*N Mofongo (below), a soupy mush of overripe plantains, bacon, garlic and black pepper might throw off those with textural issues, but the savory, hearty dish won us over. It may seem out of place at a nice, sit-down establishment, but it’s the kind of down-home, tasty dish for which Roy Choi is known. Food of the people, by the people and for the people, and we don't mean the 1%. 

The similarly street-ready sugar cane fried pigs feet (below) were a favorite, crunchy, fatty and delicious. The combination of the slightly sweet exterior and chile vinegar sauce made us consider placing another order.

Time for more drinks. The bartender made us an off-menu Trinidad Sour (below) - an inverted cocktail developed by NYC-bartender Giuseppe Gonzalez that calls for a base of bitters instead of the usual dash, orgeat, and alas - just a dash of lemon juice and Rittenhouse Rye. Quite tastier than the bitter-bomb we were tasting. 

Back to the food. We were hoping for more heat with the brown sugar scotch bonnet short ribs (below), but that didn’t stop us from enjoying the hell out of the slightly chewy, perfectly seasoned meat, (grilled LA-county style, whatever that means).

The unctuous broiled hamachi collar dealt in more subtle flavors, despite the garlic thyme butter and lime and banana chili glaze - though getting at it was a little tricky to navigate, the focus stayed on the moist, flaky texture. Not a trace of fishiness, but it might be a dish more suited to those familiar with the cut.

The slow-roasted G.O.A.T. (Greatest Of All Time) with lettuce wedges and pickled mango didn't quite live up to its name (that title stays with DC-favorite Komi's version for now), but it was very good, juicy, fork-tender and full of flavor.

We ordered the Cuban Torta (below) as an after-thought, but with the first bite, it skyrocketed to the top as one of the highlights of the night. The phenomenal combination of pork terrine, prosciutto, provolone, pickled jalapeno and mustard between two slices of crusty, delicious bread was an absolute winner.

After the explosion of flavor that was the torta, the housemade caramels with Maldon sea salt and toasted cashews, while fine, didn't set any fires.

We ended the meal on a good note with the We Be Yammin (below), a sweet potato tart with almond crust and toasted marshmallow ice cream. We liked the tart, which was a good balance of sweet, starchy, and nutty, and loved the accompanying ice cream, which brought memories of s'mores to mind. 

Given the company, the fantastically friendly and knowledgeable service and great food, it was a night warmly remembered and one we hope to recreate sometime soon. Sunny Spot is a very welcome addition, not just to Roy Choi's eccletic restaurant family, but to the Los Angeles food scene in general.

Hollywood Craft Beer Crawl from Thrillist Rewards

*Post by Mark.

A good beer crawl is a lot of fun, but finding enough good bars a walkable distance from one another and coordinating schedules with people are daunting enough tasks to derail your drinking plans. What better way to solve the problem than to have someone else organize a crawl for you? This Saturday, Thrillist Rewards is hosting their 2nd Craft Beer Crawl - which sets beer drinkers afoot through DTLA to enjoy nine craft beer pours from nine different bars and restaurants. Throw in some small bites provided along the way, and you've got yourself one helluva value for only $25. 

Last month, we had ourselves a blast stumbling through Hollywood on their first crawl. With a diverse list of bars curated by LA Weekly contributer and fellow beer geek Steven Armstrong, the downtown crawl (from 1-6 on Sat. 1/28) sets out to be one bar more ambitous than the first. In preparation, let's take a look back at the eight spots and eight beers we encountered on our crawl through Hollywood last month (handy map below).

 

Stop #1 - Big Wangs

The beer? A Calico Amber Ale from Ballast Point Brewing in San Diego. 

To the discerning beer drinker, serving it in a Bud Light glass may be akin to serving caviar in styrofoam, but Big Wangs isn't trying to be anything it's not. With TV-lined walls, pool tables, cheap beer deals on the daily, and three locations spread throughout the city, Big Wangs is the ideal kind of place to park yourself on a Sunday to watch football.  We might've done just that had seven other bars not been calling our name.  Moving on...

 

Stop #2 - District 13

The beer? A Double Trouble IPA from Lost Coast Brewery in Northern California.

District 13 was a place we were excited to finally check out. Housed in a small shopping plaza between two other beer bars, (the aforementioned Big Wangs and Stout Burger - which has some pretty great craft beers on tap despite not being on this particular crawl) District 13 might be easily skipped. But with such a fun space, great beers on tap, and a collection of sausages on the menu (some of which we were able to sample, below), this is absolutely the kind of place we'll come back to.

Stop #3 - Blue Palms Brewhouse

The beer? Of the numerous options offered, we got a South Swell Double IPA from Surf Brewery and a Speakeasy Imperial California Common.

Any Hollywood craft beer fan knows that Blue Palms isn't just the best place to grab a pint in Hollywood, it's one of the best spots in the Los Angeles area. With 24 craft beers on tap, there's always something new and unique to try. As we sipped on our beers, we got our hands on some complimentary sandwiches they were passing around. But it's worth coming in for the food on the regular menu - BP has some seriously good bar food, including great gourmet sausages and some of the best onion rings in the city. 

   

Stop #4 - Hemmingway's Lounge

The beer? Old Rasputin Russian Imperialist Stout from North Coast Brewing Company.

Another new bar for us, Hemmingway's Lounge feels like a place where the man himself might've enjoyed entertaining a circle of writers and artists with one of his four wives - books everywhere you turn, shabby chic decor that is both cool and cozy (the wall of antique typewriters is a highlight), and a not-insubstantial list of beers and cocktails (named after Hemmingway's works). Finding this little oasis of calm nestled on oft chaotic, tourist-crowded Hollywood Boulevard was a pleasant surprise.

 

Stop #5 - The Writers Room

The beer? A Duvel Belgian Ale. 

In the spirit of the crawl, our bartenders were sport enough to pour us a glass of Duvel, but you'll want to come here for the cocktails. In this dark throw-back venue - where in-the-know bar seekers will find the entrance hidden in a parking lot behind Musso & Frank's - each of the Daniel Nelson's drinks seems an homage to the cultural melting pot of Los Angeles' past and present. 

Excited by the cocktail offerings, we took a temporary respite from beer and the crawl in general. The Dead Man Oaxacan (below, left) is an ode to LA's Oaxacan population, made with mezcal, mole-orange liqeur, Mexican oregano and a Chapulines garnish (note to the faint of stomach, chapulines is grasshopper - a popular snack in Oaxaca). The Fukushima Meltdown (below, left) draws its inspiration from Little Osaka, mixing a 12 year Yumazaki Japanese whisky, yuzukosho, sasho pepper (think tongue-numbing Szechuan peppercorn), and orange juice. The Cho Sun One (below, middle) is your K-Town rep, bringing corn whiskey, Korean pear, perilla leaf, lemon and sesame into the mix. And we can't forget Thai Town, can we? The Kaffir Rickey (below, right) adds vodka to the traditional gin-based cocktail of Kaffir lime juice, lemongrass and carbonated coconut water.

Look for even more of LA's diverse demographics represented when The Writers Room expands its cocktail list. We're particlularly looking forward to the Armenian Genocide (which is either a great drink or the best episode of Keeping up with the Kardashians ever). Until then, we've still got three more bars to hit.

 

Stop #6 - Five 0 Four

The beer? A Jockamo IPA by Abita Brewing Company 

Five0Four (504) might be the area code to New Orleans, but it's also home to some real NOLA menu options like Po' Boys, Jumbalaya or Chicken and Sausage Gumbo. On tap is a small selection of craft beers, with a few from Louisiana's own Abita Brewing Company highlighting the bunch. With the hours ticking down, we were in a hurry to move on, so we downed our beers and took a rain check on the 'food' and 'fun' billed on the restaurant's sign.

Stop #7 - Bodega Wine Bar

The beer? The Valkyrie Altbier by Enegren Brewing Company.

Stop 7? Our blurry pictures correlate with even blurrier memories. Bodega Wine Bar is one of three locations that compliments its focus on wine with a casual menu of sandwiches, pizzas and shared plates. We eagerly sampled some of their bacon wrapped medjool dates stuffed with pecorino cheese. Also on hand was Matt Enegren of Enegren Brewing to pour some of their locally brewed beer.

Stop #8 - Go Burger

The beer? A honey Blonde Ale by Firestone Walker Brewing Company.

Brought to us by ESquared Hospitality Group - most well known for their upscale chain of BLT Steakhouses - Go Burger is a more casual eatery known for their burgers and spiked milkshakes. If that sounds good to you, visit soon - word has it that Go Burger is about to undergo a conceptual make-over. We managed to snag a booth to relax after all that crawling, but most of the energetic Saturday night crowd was on its feet, surrounding the bar.

 

If any of this seems up your alley, don't forget to snag your tickets to this Saturday's Downtown Craft Beer Crawl. It's only $25, and we'll be there, so come share a beer... or nine... with us. 

Freddy Smalls Bar & Kitchen

*Post by Angela.

To those on the Westside searching for a bad-ass neighborhood spot, your prayers have been answered. Owned by Jeff Weinstein (of burger chain The Counter) and helmed by acclaimed San Francisco chefs Jeremy Fox (a 2008 Food & Wine Magazine Best New Chef) and Charlie Parker (a 2011 SF Chronicle Rising Star), Freddy Smalls is the ultimate laid-back gastro-experience. The vibe? Chill as hell. The cocktails? A nice balance of the masculine and feminine. The food? Really fun and solidly executed, with flashes of brilliance. We visited about a week after opening with friend Aaron (The Savory Hunter), and the tiny bar and kitchen seems to have already found its stride.

The sign outside remains unchanged from the previous tenant, El Sarape. In fact, the restaurant's name was taken from an old piece of stained glass on the premises that said 'Freddy'. And, in embracing the theme of Freddy, when you walk through the front door, you are greeted by the wall of Freddys (No Freddie Mercury? C'mon people!). The pre-requisite soundtrack of 90's hip-hop thumps throughout the course of our meal. 

We sampled a handful of cocktails from the bar where Manager David Fleischer (formerly of Seven Grand) is also slinging wine and nine craft beers on tap. The Stumbling Cowboy tempers a manly dose of Wild Turkey Rye 101 and homemade sarsaparilla with a candied ginger and lemon garnish. The Planter’s Peace aims for the same balance with a sweet and fruity twist, combining aged rum with lemon, orange, pineapple, house grenadine, soda, lime & cherry garnish. The Mayberry Smash, maybe our favorite of the night, pairs the distinctive flavor of Death’s Door Gin with fresh berries, sage honey, lemon, and a mint leaf garnish.

For eats, the chefs have concocted a menu of elevated bar food. Think reasonably priced comforts like BBQ cashews peppered with spices and candied bacon, or fried brussels sprouts with goat cheese and apple cider glaze. When it comes to entrees, Freddy's offers fun fare like a playful 'remix' on the classic chicken parm- served en casserole, with fall-apart, dark meat chicken, confit garlic, tomato sauce and of course a smothering blanket of cheese (an item to try on our next visit).

For our first selection this time around, we were curious to try the flash-grilled steak tartar, which, mounded under a slow-cooked smoked egg yolk, was one of the most flavorful versions we’d ever tasted. The Worcestershire potato chips with which it was served gave a nice tang and crunch.  

The deviled eggs smashed together bold Point Reyes blue cheese and hot sauce, along with bits of crispy chicken skin for a texture contrast. We really liked these little mouthfuls, though we wouldn’t have complained about a touch of acid to cut through the richness.

Richness wasn’t a problem with the beautiful beet salad with red quinoa, fuyu persimmons and pistachio. Really the only lighter dish we had that night, it was really refreshing and played subtle sweet and nutty notes on our tongues.

We dived back into decadence with a dollop of smooth chicken liver mousse, served with a sweet red wine and shallot marmalade and violet mustard.

We would bet money that the luxurious mushroom and farro porridge can be attributed to Chef Jeremy, who took vegetarian cuisine to new heights at San Francisco “vegetable restaurant” Ubuntu. Almost too rich for our palates, the meaty mushrooms, hearty farro and unctuous broth combined in a way that made the lack of animal products a non-issue, even for near-carnivores like us.

The house-smoked trout with roasted baby turnips, pear puree, mussels and turnip top salsa verde is a dish for those with a real love of seafood. Lightly dressed in a creamy sauce, the intensely-flavored trout was the shining star of the plate.

The aptly-named Reuben’s Gluttony made our jaws drop. Every element of the dish, from the hefty portion of bone marrow and pile of thick corned beef slices to the piping hot hunks of Yorkshire pudding, glistened with (almost literal) heart-stopping goodness.

And we finished strong. The crispy-on-the-outside, doughy-on-the-inside Belgian waffles with soft, intensely sweet slices of Pink Lady apples and bourbon-maple syrup were pretty darned good on their own, but honestly? We viewed them more as a socially acceptable delivery system for the fantastic bacon butter.

We’re not West LA-ers, but even so, we’re tempted to claim Freddy Smalls as our new spot – the place is just so damned cool. Actually…forget you read this post. Freddy Smalls is OURS.

Short Order - Nancy Silverton & Amy Pressman's vision for Burgers at the Original Farmers Market

*Post by Angela.

The Farmers Market at the Grove is not only a Los Angeles landmark (having opened in 1934), it’s also one of our favorite places to shop – within walking distance, open 7 days a week, and a great place to nab deals on fruits, veggies, fish, and meats. And on occasion, after we've checked all the items off our shopping list, we'll grab some quick food from one of the many food vendors because it's convenient. But we've yet to find a dining option in the Farmers Market or the adjacent Grove that compels us on its own merits. Enter Short Order, located on the southwest corner of the Market, and born of the friendship between the late, burger-loving Pasadena chef Amy Pressman, and L.A. mainstay Nancy Silverton (of La Brea Bakery and Pizzeria and Osteria Mozza).

The immediately available seating on the downstairs patio won out over the upstairs option of indoor seating and full bar with cocktails created by the ubiquitous Julian Cox. A week or so after our visit, the establishment added to its offerings, opening Short Cake - a gourmet bakery serving the likes of cookies, scones and croissants - as well as Single Origin Coffee - a matching coffee bar serving pour-over brews from Santa Cruz's Verve Coffee Roasters.

Because we were in a lounging, lazy Saturday mood, we split an adult milk shake. The Charlie Brown (below, right) is a vanilla custard based shake, augmented with peanut infused 114 proof Old Grand Dad, creme fraiche, chocolate ganache, and drizzles of peanut sauce. We also split an order of the Short Order Spuds (below, left) - big hunks of fried potatoes, like skin-on steak fries on steroids - with a creamy dipping sauce topped with bacon bits. 

The spuds and the shake, though really nice, were entirely too filling, given that we had also ordered two burgers. Nancy’s Backyard Burger, with artisan bacon, comté (a strong, sweet French cheese), avocado, heirloom tomato, iceberg, and spicy mayo, was bold, ambitious and literally dripping with flavor - aiming for LA's top tier of gourmet burgers. It should come as no surprise that the bun selected by master bakers Silverton and Pressman is top-notch - buttery, light, yet strong enough to soak up the juices from the patty and toppings without collapsing.

The pork burger, with range-fed pork, rapini, stracchino (a very mild Italian cheese) and bibb lettuce. The pork option was nice, but could have stood a touch more salt or perhaps bolder cheese - compared to the perfectly seasoned beef blend used in the Backyard Burger, it came off a little boring. But there are still plenty of other enticing non-beef options available, including lamb, tuna and turkey burgers, tuna melts, grilled cheeses, preztel dogs (!), and a tofu option.

Ever since Umami's burgeoning brand has blossomed into a bazillion dollar empire, you can't turn a corner in Los Angeles without stumbling upon the opening of new burger joint. What the majority of these wannabes lack is the power of a strong brand. But backed by such a high-profile local chef, a killer location and very solid burgers, Short Order just might be up to the towering challenge. It will certainly be interesting when Umami's empire expands into its biggest location yet next door at the Grove. 

Maker's Mark Dinner at Red Medicine

*Post by Mark.

It took us nearly a year before we officially made it to Red Medicine. Chef Jordan Kahn's young career has already brought him through the kitchens of Thomas Keller and Michael Mina. Now he tries his hand at a modern cuisine that is not attempting fusion - as the restaurant's manifesto states - but is merely inspired by Vietnamese cuisine and Chinatown dives. In its first year, the small Beverly Hills restaurant has found its share of press. If not for the awards garnered by its inspired food, then for the restaruants' now-notorious unmasking and ousting of a well-known critic.

It wasn't so much that we were blacklisting the restaurant, just that for much of 2011, the sour taste of such shenanigans gave us occasion to dine elsewhere. Months after the media storm finally died down, we'd nearly forgotten to check in, but finally found occasion to give Red Medicine a chance when we were invited to Maker's Mark-sponsored dinner where bourbon cocktails would be paired with Chef Kahn's cuisine.

Maker's Mark Los Angeles "Diplomat" April Gallegos served as our ebullient host, taking us through the history of Maker's Mark as well as the whisky-making process (and gave us a number of great suggestions for hosting at home). These days, we rarely find Maker's on cocktail menus or in our liquor cabinet, so with managing partner Noah Ellis on hand to guide us through the evening's menu and their four specially designed Maker's Mark cocktails this would be a night for second chances.  

Our first drink was Red Medicine's take on a Moscow Mule (classically made with ginger beer and lime). Already one of our favorite cocktails, Red Med's version showcased a delicious housemade grenadine and a blast of carbonation after the drinks were mixed and allowed to sit for a few hours. The light, refreshing libation was paired with first round of food, consisting of four light(er) dishes.

First came the pork rillette. Nestled deep in a bed of greens and served with crispy slivers of bread,  the rillette was rich with duck fat and redolent of spice (cloves). The velvety texture of the spread was broken up by sweet chunks of lychee and crunchy bits of chicken skin and pistachio. 

The next dish used various leafy greens to camouflage a meltingly tender beef tartare, which traded the classic version's mix-ins (dijon mustard/cornichon pickles/capers/shallot/egg yolk) for Asian-inspired ingredients: water chestnuts, chlorophyll, nuoc leo (peanut sauce) and crumbled peanuts.

Continuing the "hidden treasures" theme, we found tangy, tiny tomatoes buried in a foam of sake lees (the thick rice paste that’s left at the end of the sake-making process), along with peanut, Malaysian spices, and lavender, and garnished with the crispy white rice crackers that accompanied many of the dishes.

The last dish of the first round was kind of stunning in its simplicity. Hiding beneath the blanket of rice crackers sat golden and nutty Brussels sprouts, tossed with caramelized shallots in a salty and slightly mouth-puckering dressing of fish sauce and vermouth. 

The second round of food, which alternated heavy and light dishes, was paired with Red Medicine's twist on a mint julep, which combined Maker's Mark with housemade pineapple syrup, mint, grapefruit peel and whisky barrel aged bitters. A little more substantial than the first drink, we could still imagine sipping this creation in the warmer months.

Providing a nice segue between the lighter first dishes and the slightly heavier entrees, the sweet corn, with Kelley's egg, turmeric crepe, black malt and shiitake delicately balanced its many elements: the dry, slightly burnt flavor of the malt powder and the earthiness of the shiitakes provided an anchor for the sweetness of the corn and the richness of the egg.

There was nothing delicate about the next dish, and we loved it. The creamy, luscious heirloom rice porridge, with egg yolk, hazelnuts, ginseng, and echire (artisan French butter), was one of the most decadent things either of us had ever tasted. Our apologies to our tablemates who were elbowed aside for those last few bites.

After the extravagance of the rice porridge, the sword fin squid - with onion soubise (a rich French sauce), young carrots, salted black bean and elderflower – brought us back to earth with subtlety and elegance.

Like the rice porridge, the Imperial Wagyu beef brisket was a bolder, more hearty dish. Fall-apart tender from a 36-hour braise, the meat got a sweet, salty glaze of palm sugar and fish sauce. Almost too much flavor on its own, it was perfect in little bites wrapped with the accompanying lettuce leaves and assortment of shredded pickled veggies.

We finished the savory dishes and moved onto the sweet courses. The first sweet cocktail was the first we tried with Maker's Mark 46 (which takes the original product and ages it a little longer using barrels with inserts of seared French oak planks). This creamy brew, which combines the slightly sweeter 46 with coconut milk, egg yolk, sugar and spices, would be a fantastic hit at any holiday party.

The first dessert played off the flavors of the cocktail: a coconut bavarois (a Bavarian cream dessert) with coffee, condensed milk, Thai basil, peanut croquant and chicory.

The final cocktail paired the 46 with Echire butter, sugar, Maldon salt, hot water and nutmeg. Another great seasonal drink, though the intense sweetness and heaviness from the butter forced some to quit after a few sips (in its defense, this was our second sweet drink in as many already sweet dessert courses).

In the last dish, the kitchen paired bitter chocolate with more savory flavors, utilizing kecap manis (an Indonesian sauce that tastes like sweet soy sauce), oats, and parsnip with brown butter and soy milk sorbet.

As we ambled out of Red Medicine, our full stomachs and contented tastebuds were glad to have given the restaurant and the whisky their respective second chances. The next day, a bottle of Maker's Mark found its way back into our liquor cabinet and we were even inspired to try our own Maker's Mark based cocktails.

*Disclosure - this was a hosted media dinner.